Asturias

What if the best summer riding in Southern Europe isn’t found in the south at all?

In Asturias, mountains and ocean meet under mild skies, offering quiet roads, deep green valleys and a rare sense of calm.

Preview – Asturias, Between Mountains and the Sea

Summer riding in Southern Europe has lost much of its appeal for me. Heat, crowds and overexposed highlights often turn a motorcycle trip into an endurance test. Asturias, tucked away in northern Spain along the Atlantic coast, offers a compelling alternative: cooler temperatures, dramatic landscapes and roads that still feel undiscovered.

The journey begins at the very edge of the region, following the Río Eo inland from the Galician border. Forested valleys, smooth asphalt and sweeping bends immediately set the tone. Traffic is scarce, the rhythm natural. Along the river, salmon fight their way upstream a reminder that Asturias almost has more in common with Norway or Scotland than with the stereotypical image of Spain.

"Along the river, salmon fight their way upstream a reminder that Asturias almost has more in common with Norway or Scotland than with the stereotypical image of Spain."

Small villages like Taramundi and its surrounding hamlets feel suspended in time. Dead-end roads lead to perfectly kept houses, flower-filled balconies and an almost unsettling silence. Streams murmur, waterfalls hide in dense woodland and museums dedicated to watermills and traditional knife-making tell stories of self-sufficient mountain life. Riding here feels intimate, as if the road exists solely for those willing to take it.

The coast introduces contrast. Fishing villages such as Cudillero promise charm, but also reveal the downsides of popularity. Buses, crowds and souvenir stalls briefly disrupt the illusion. Yet Asturias quickly redeems itself. Places like Playa del Silencio, perched between steep cliffs, and lonely coastal chapels restore the sense of space. Often, the road itself becomes the quietest place to be flowing between ocean and hills, carried by the steady pulse of the boxer engine of the BMW R 12 S beneath me.

Deeper inland, Asturias shows its wild side. In Somiedo Natural Park, warning signs announce the possible presence of bears. Remote mountain villages, hairpin roads and high-altitude lakes define the riding experience. Encounters are simple and human: coffee in a village bar, dogs sleeping at your feet, time stretching as the light softens in the evening. Here, nature still sets the pace.

Not every highlight delivers. Access restrictions and shuttle buses near Covadonga turn what should be a dream road into a reminder of how fragile freedom of movement can be. Turning away becomes an act of self-preservation, a choice to seek quieter alternatives instead.

Those alternatives are plentiful. The Picos de Europa, approached from lesser-known routes, offer some of the finest riding in the region. The climb toward Sotres - the highest village in Asturias - is a sequence of perfect S-bends framed by rivers and sheer rock faces. Further still, forgotten roads in reserves like Ponga reward curiosity with solitude and raw beauty.

Asturias is gaining popularity, but for now its heart remains untouched. Away from a handful of hotspots, the roads are calm, the climate forgiving and the landscapes endlessly varied. For riders willing to travel a little further to escape the heat and the crowds, this green corner of Spain offers a rare balance between mountains and sea and a reminder of why we ride in the first place.