aUTEUR

fOTOGRAAF

JAAR

GEPUBLICEERD IN

mOTORCYCLE

Charly de Kinderen

Charly de Kinderen

2018

Motoren & Toerisme | Motor.NL

KTM 990 Adventure

What if the safest place you’ve ever ridden is also the one you knew the least about?

From desert dunes to mountain roads, Oman reveals itself as a country where motorcycles are left unlocked, strangers stop to help, and the journey feels as pure as the landscape itself.

Preview – Oman, riding the unknown

It feels strangely unnatural to remove the key from the ignition again once I’m back in Belgium. In Oman, we simply didn’t. Motorcycles were left outside overnight, helmets stayed on the bikes, and nothing ever disappeared. In a region often misunderstood, safety turns out to be the country’s quiet superpower.


Our journey begins in Salalah, in the far south, and gradually works its way north. The goal is simple: to experience Oman in its full diversity. The group is small and international, guided by a local expert and supported by a truck that follows us through deserts, mountains and coastal roads. Outside the cities, traffic quickly fades away, replaced by dromedaries wandering unpredictably across the asphalt and roads of astonishing quality stretching into the distance.


Accommodation alternates between comfortable lodges and nights spent under the stars. I quickly discover that desert nights demand more respect than I anticipated. Temperatures drop, winds rise, and a light summer sleeping bag proves wildly optimistic. Yet waking up in the Empty Quarter, the vast Rub’ al Khali dune desert makes every discomfort instantly worthwhile. Endless sand dunes, subtle shades of beige and unexpected vegetation create a landscape that feels almost unreal.


The riding is demanding. Corrugated tracks shake both rider and machine, and mechanical issues slow the group down. While newer bikes suffer, the older KTM Adventure beneath me proves its worth day after day. It becomes clear that reliability and character still matter more than age. Between long distances, we detour to ancient frankincense sites, reminders of a time when this resin was worth more than gold and Oman stood at the heart of global trade routes.

"While newer bikes suffer, the older KTM Adventure beneath me proves its worth day after day."

As the Arabian Sea comes back into view, one of the most spectacular roads of the trip unfolds. The coastal route north of Salalah rises and falls alongside the mountains, bathed in warm evening light and completely devoid of traffic. Riding here feels effortless, almost intimate, as if the road exists solely for us. That night, we camp on the beach, waves replacing engines as the soundtrack.


Wadis (water-carved valleys) offer moments of pure contrast. After dusty miles, we find green oases where fresh water flows from towering rock walls. Locals welcome us with effortless generosity, stopping unprompted to ask if help is needed, offering drinks or invitations without expecting anything in return. In Oman, hospitality is not a gesture; it’s a way of life.


Further north, culture takes the foreground. Historic cities like Nizwa reveal forts, markets and layers of history shaped by Portuguese, Ottoman and British influences. The landscape then shifts once more as we enter the Hajar Mountains. Twisting roads, mixed surfaces and dramatic elevation lead us toward Jebel Shams, Oman’s highest peak, and to viewpoints overlooking Wadi Ghul often called the country’s Grand Canyon.


The journey ends in Muscat, a capital that surprises with its calm order and architectural restraint. As we reflect on nearly 3,000 kilometers of riding, one truth stands out: Oman offers a rare combination of safety, solitude and diversity. Desert, sea, mountains and culture blend seamlessly, without crowds or noise. Oman doesn’t demand attention. It earns it quietly. And that may be exactly why it stays with you long after the ride ends.