The world’s northernmost dealer

A two hour flight with Scandinavian airline SAS takes us from Brussels to Oslo. There, we change planes for another two hour flight to Evenes, a small village more than a thousand kilometres north of the Arctic Circle. Fortunately, it’s August, so temperatures are relatively mild at around 15°C.

The following morning, a taxi takes us to Ballangen, another seemingly unremarkable village in northern Norway, but one with a rather special Harley-Davidson dealership. The owner proudly tells us that his shop is the northernmost dealership for the American brand in the world. He’s even had T-shirts made to celebrate the distinction. Naturally, I can’t resist buying one.

Our mounts are the new Pan America and, somewhat more surprisingly, the Heritage Classic. Two motorcycles that could hardly be more different. For company, I’ve brought my father along. After all, riding to the North Cape has been on his bucket list for years. Apart from a few exceptions, it’s been thirty years since he last rode a motorcycle. Fortunately, he gets comfortable on the Pan America surprisingly quickly, and the Norwegian roads are in superb condition. Time to catch our first ferry!

Ferries

Think of Norway and you think of water. Which means there’s no escaping the need to take a ferry from time to time. The system works remarkably well, although you do need to plan your journey around the crossings. Do that, and there’s little reason to spend unnecessary time waiting around.

We’re travelling in late August, just after the peak of the tourist season, so there’s no need to book our ferries in advance. During the busiest summer months, however, particularly June, July and August, reservations may be necessary. Finding a corner of the car deck for a motorcycle is obviously easier than accommodating a car or campervan.

The crossings are always a welcome opportunity to relax. You can admire the landscape from a different perspective and, if necessary, take a moment to dry off or warm up. That last point is particularly relevant, because a completely dry motorcycle trip through Norway is wishful thinking.

It rains heavily on our very first day. Somehow, the weather suits the scenery, so we don’t let it bother us too much. We arrive in the Lofoten Islands by ferry via the port of Lødingen. Getting lost here is practically impossible, as there’s essentially one main road leading all the way to the southern tip of the archipelago. The E10 winds along the coastline and past towering cliffs before reaching the village of Å.

For our first night, however, we stay a little further north in Hamnøy. Here, traditional red fishermen’s cabins, known as rorbuer, have been converted into cosy accommodation. Their deep red colour contrasts beautifully with the imposing, almost monochrome mountains rising behind them. Water surrounds the entire scene, filling the air with a salty tang. Nearby, distinctive wooden racks stand in the fields, used to dry cod. It’s a picture that seems frozen in time, but at the neighbouring Gadus restaurant, we discover wonderfully contemporary cuisine. Make sure to book a table in advance.

Winter surfing

The following morning, we turn around and head back along the E10, beginning the journey towards the North Cape. This time, we make several stops to get to know the islands a little better. You could easily spend an entire week exploring the Lofoten Islands, but there’s still plenty of ground to cover.

After admiring the beautiful bay at Flakstad, we turn onto a dead end road leading to Vikten. Sheep graze on the steep mountain slopes, while the mist makes it feel as though the road could simply disappear around any bend. Further along, we turn right again and the fog begins to lift, revealing a charming, sleepy village.

The school bell rings and, with no playground to speak of, the children play in the street. There’s hardly any traffic to worry about. Down by the beach, a glassblowing studio has opened its doors to visitors. Coffee is already waiting, and we warm ourselves beside the furnace while watching the artisan at work. We could happily stay here for longer, but there’s still so much to discover. Next stop: Unstad.

This little village has been high on my personal wish list for some time. It’s famous for Arctic surfing, a phenomenon that draws surfers to its waters even in winter, when temperatures plunge to almost unbearable levels. They come in search of the perfect wave, regardless of the cold. Today, however, the sea is relatively calm and there isn’t a surfer in sight.

Even so, Unstad has that unmistakable surf culture you might associate with Biarritz. The atmosphere is one thing, but the approach to the village is equally memorable. A perfectly straight road cuts through a lush green valley, leading you directly towards the coast. It’s a magical stretch of tarmac.

After lunch, we continue to Henningsvær, another village known around the world, largely thanks to its football pitch carved into the rocky landscape. It’s an extraordinary sight from above, although it’s somewhat less spectacular when viewed from ground level. The village itself is still well worth a visit, with plenty of shops and restaurants to explore.