Green by design

Even the journey to the starting point is spectacular. Via Landsberg am Lech in Germany, I cross the Dolomites on my way to Levico Terme. The official itinerary begins the following day beside the lakes of Levico, in the northern Italian region of Trentino-Alto Adige. The route takes me past vineyards clinging to steep hillsides before sending me onto the motorway to cross the monotonous Po Valley as quickly as possible on the way to Modena.

The trip comes with its fair share of setbacks. While filtering through traffic, I’m nearly knocked off my motorcycle several times by truck doors suddenly swinging open. My stubborn GPS sends me to a point several kilometres away from the planned route. And, to top it all off, my drone ends up in a tree, forcing me to perform a few acrobatic manoeuvres to retrieve it.

I decide to stop at a café for a quick bite, hoping to break the cycle of minor disasters. A soggy piece of toast does little to improve my mood, but the view of the Apennines, the mountain range forming Tuscany’s northern boundary, makes up for it. It’s still chilly for the time of year, and I can even spot snow covered peaks in the distance.

I continue along winding roads that are in reasonably good condition. Now the trip can finally begin in earnest, and the enjoyable riding quickly puts me in a more relaxed mood. The Apennines come to an abrupt end with a steep descent towards Pistoia. I avoid the busy city centre, surrounded by countless plant nurseries and tree growers. Their fresh, pleasant scents drift through my helmet as I ride past.

The route takes me through affluent suburbs, where carefully landscaped gardens surround beautiful Tuscan villas straight out of a postcard. By evening, I reach my base for the coming days: a former wine estate converted into a hotel in Poggibonsi. From here, I’ll ride five circular routes that will take me to every corner of Tuscany.

Away from the crowds

The following morning, I can already see the village of San Gimignano and its famous towers from the hotel car park. To avoid the crowds, I decide not to stop and instead continue towards the coast. The vineyards soon give way to dense forests, and the roads are a motorcyclist’s dream: good visibility, little traffic and beautiful natural surroundings.

After spending several days riding inland, there’s always something special about catching your first glimpse of the sea. From a hillside, the shimmering blue surface suddenly appears in my field of vision. The descent towards sea level can begin.

Down on the coast, however, the busy coastal strip proves far less picturesque. To keep myself entertained, I start saying the musical names of the Italian villages and towns I pass out loud whenever I spot a sign. Suddenly, one name rings a bell: Rosignano Solvay. A familiar name to us Belgians, as Solvay is a major Belgian industrial group.

A quick look at Wikipedia confirms that the town does indeed owe its name to a Belgian Solvay factory. The strikingly white beach at Rosignano Solvay is reportedly the result of discharges from the factory. It’s a bizarre story, but the beaches have become popular thanks to their almost tropical appearance.

My time on the coastal road is short lived, and before long I reach Pisa. The Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Colosseum in Rome are two of the Italian peninsula’s most iconic landmarks. I simply can’t pass through without stopping to admire the famous tilted tower. Piazza dei Miracoli is a beautiful place, although the usual tourist excesses come with the territory: stalls selling souvenirs, a McDonald’s and a square full of people posing for the ultimate cliché holiday photo.

As an antidote to the crowds, I ride on for another hour before stopping in a village square. I order an espresso and a slice of cheesecake. While I savour the local treat, villagers gather around the square, catching up on the latest news with the help of characteristically expressive Italian hand gestures. I enjoy the blissful slow pace of this little village square far more than I did the world famous one I visited earlier.