Auvergne

What if “the emptiness” turns out to be exactly what you were looking for?

In the heart of France’s Auvergne, Domaine Barreaux proves that silence, space and hospitality can redefine the way we travel by motorcycle.

Preview – Domaine Barreaux, Riding into the French “Empty Quarter”

France has a term for it: la diagonale du vide—a vast stretch of countryside marked by low population density and fragile economies. On paper, it sounds uninviting. On the road, it becomes something else entirely. Space. Silence. Breathing room. In the middle of this so-called emptiness, in the Auvergne, Rita and Luc - two Belgians - have created Domaine Barreaux, a guesthouse that feels less like accommodation and more like coming home.

Reaching the domain from Belgium takes about seven hours, perfectly manageable in a single day on modern touring motorcycles. Once the motorway monotony fades near Troyes, the landscape opens up through the Morvan: dense forests, winding roads and quiet villages that prepare you for what lies ahead. Arrival is disarmingly warm. Before the helmet is even off, there’s a hug, a kiss on the cheek, and the unmistakable feeling that you’re not a customer but a guest.

This week, the courtyard fills with BMW GS motorcycles as the GS Club of Flanders rolls in. Among them, a KTM 1290 Adventure and a Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally stand out, yet brand loyalty quickly becomes irrelevant. Shared roads and shared tables dissolve any boundaries. Here, the logo on the tank matters far less than the stories exchanged over a Belgian beer.

The riding around Domaine Barreaux unfolds gently at first. The land appears flat, but the silhouettes of the Massif Central rise on the horizon. Formed by hundreds of ancient volcanoes, the region offers roads that flow naturally through green pastures and misty highlands. Riding here feels closer to Scotland than central France: mysterious, subdued and endlessly calming. Traffic is scarce, the engines the loudest sound in an otherwise quiet world.

Encounters become highlights. An old-fashioned fuel stop. A café owner curious about the motorcycles, offering directions to a hidden lake perfect for cooling off. These moments brief, sincere and unplanned anchor the journey in memory far more than any landmark ever could.

"Gastronomy here isn’t staged; it’s simply part of life."

A detour leads to Vichy, the historic spa town now recognised as UNESCO World Heritage. Its faded elegance speaks of former glory, yet the atmosphere remains distinct and dignified. Back at the domain, evenings are devoted to food. Exceptional beef from local cattle, cooked on an open fire, silences a dozen hungry riders instantly. Cheese follows Saint-Nectaire, Cantal, Bleu d’Auvergne each bite reflecting the surrounding pastures. Gastronomy here isn’t staged; it’s simply part of life.

Solo rides deepen the experience. Forests grow darker, roads twist tighter, and villages like Charroux and Montaigu-le-Blin inspire quiet daydreams of restoration projects and slower lives. Occasionally, a perfect ribbon of asphalt appears unexpectedly, carved through a gorge, deserted and seemingly designed for motorcyclists alone.

Returning to Domaine Barreaux via dams, viaducts and rolling farmland, the sense of disconnection from everyday life becomes complete. Taking wrong turns on purpose feels logical here: time stretches, daylight lingers, and urgency disappears.

Leaving the Auvergne is abrupt. Motorways, traffic and deadlines return far too quickly. Yet the impression remains. Domaine Barreaux isn’t just a place to stay. It’s a reminder that travel doesn’t need spectacle but only space, sincerity and the right roads.