Croatia

AUTHOR

Charly de Kinderen

PHOTOGRAPHER

Charly de Kinderen

YEAR

2022

PUBLISHED IN

Motoren & Toerisme

mOTORCYCLE

BMW R 1250 GS

What if a long weekend could feel like several journeys at once?

In Croatia, forests with bears, mountain roads, islands and the Adriatic coast unfold within a few unforgettable riding days.

Preview – Croatia, a Long Weekend of Constant Change

Croatia proves that a motorcycle trip doesn’t need huge distances to feel rich and complete. In just a few days, the scenery shifts constantly from inland forests and mountain roads to island ferries and the shimmering Adriatic coast. Few countries offer such variety in such compact form.


After a short flight to Zagreb, the journey begins on a trusted BMW GS. The capital quickly fades into the background as countryside roads lead through vineyards and small villages. A stop in a local wine region sometimes called “Little Champagne” introduces sparkling wines and the discovery of orange wine, hinting at Croatia’s quiet culinary ambitions. Hospitality shows itself early, when a sudden thunderstorm leads to shelter in a stranger’s home, complete with food, drink and conversation. It’s a first sign of a recurring theme: genuine kindness.


Heading south, the roads become narrower and greener. Villages like Ogulin and Kuterevo sit deep in nature, where bears still roam nearby forests. Riding here feels slow and immersive, with tricky surfaces and blind bends encouraging restraint. Time stretches, and the landscape evokes a calm, almost mythical atmosphere far removed from crowded tourist routes.


From the mountains, the route drops dramatically toward the coast. One moment you’re riding through dense pine forests, the next you’re staring down at the Adriatic from a bare mountain ridge. The descent toward the sea ranks among the most beautiful roads of the trip, a flowing ribbon of asphalt with endless views and little traffic. A ferry carries the journey onward to the island of Rab, where pine forests, clean streets and a relaxed rhythm of life justify its reputation as one of Croatia’s happiest places. A morning swim in crystal-clear water feels like a reward for choosing the slow way.

"A morning swim in crystal-clear water feels like a reward for choosing the slow way."


Back on the mainland, the coastal road continues to impress. Early starts avoid traffic, and occasional detours away from the GPS reveal quiet beaches or cool mountain air. Inland again, the trip takes a reflective turn with a visit to the birthplace of Nikola Tesla, a reminder of how deeply one mind can shape the modern world. Nearby, a deserted airbase offers a surreal moment of freedom before the journey turns toward one of Croatia’s most famous sights.


Plitvice Lakes are undeniably spectacular, with cascading waterfalls and turquoise pools. Yet the crowds and rigid pathways introduce a theme of mass tourism that contrasts sharply with the spontaneity of the rest of the trip. The beauty is unquestionable, but it feels curated rather than discovered.


The final ride back toward Zagreb avoids the fastest roads in favour of slower country lanes, squeezing out a last dose of calm before the city closes in again. In just four days and roughly six hundred kilometres, Croatia reveals itself as an ideal destination for riders short on time but hungry for variety. This is a country that rewards curiosity. Not with grand distances, but with constant change in landscapes, moods and moments that linger long after the engine stops.

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