The estate is an hour’s ride from the geographical centre of France. Right in the middle of what some call the empty quarter, yet surprisingly easy to reach. Rita and Luc organise themed weeks centred around the simple pleasure of enjoying life. Motorcycle clubs come to explore the region together, while renowned chefs take over the kitchen to work their culinary magic. It’s a formula that suits them perfectly. When I climb off my bike after a long day in the saddle, sweat on my forehead, I haven’t even taken off my helmet before I’m greeted with a hug and a kiss on the cheek. I don’t feel like a visitor from far away, but more like a long lost relative who has finally found his way home.
A row of Beemers in the courtyard
This week, the GS Club of Flanders is staying at the estate. Twelve immaculate BMW GSs are lined up in front of the house, forming a small army of Beemers. With our KTM 1290 Adventure S and a Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally, we’re the odd ones out, but the welcome is immediate and warm. No disapproving looks, just curious glances and friendly questions. The Austrian and the Italian attract plenty of attention, but over the first Belgian beer, one thing quickly becomes clear: out here, we’re all riding together, regardless of the badge on the tank.
The road south
From Belgium, it takes around seven hours to reach this haven of tranquillity. It sounds like a long haul, but with modern touring motorcycles, it’s perfectly manageable in a single day. After an unavoidable stretch of motorway, I leave the monotony behind near Troyes. From there, the landscape begins to open up. The Morvan Regional Natural Park, with its dense forests, winding roads and picturesque villages, makes the perfect appetiser before reaching Auvergne.
The following morning, one of the GS Club members persuades me to join him for an early morning run. Getting up before sunrise doesn’t come naturally, but the reward is immense: blankets of mist hovering over the fields, the gentle song of birds and the smell of damp grass. It’s the kind of scene that stays with you long after the moment has passed, filling me with energy for the day ahead.
Volcanoes and panoramic views
The landscape around Domaine Barreaux is relatively flat, but the outlines of the Massif Central are visible on the horizon. This region was shaped around twenty million years ago by more than four hundred volcanoes. Their silhouettes still dominate the skyline, and their legacy lives on in the roads, natural ribbons winding their way through the countryside.
We take a wide loop around Clermont Ferrand, crossing two regional natural parks along the way. A mysterious, misty atmosphere hangs over the landscape, evoking Scotland more than central France. Green pastures filled with cattle stretch as far as the eye can see, while the rumble of our engines is the only sound disturbing the silence.
Along the way, we stop to refuel in a tiny village. The petrol station looks as though it has stepped straight out of another era, back when Citroën 2CVs were still happily buzzing along the roads. The woman running the neighbouring café comes outside, intrigued by our arrival. She asks where we’re from and studies our motorcycles as if they were spaceships, before sharing the location of a secluded lake where, she tells us, we can cool off. With temperatures hovering around thirty degrees, it’s a timely suggestion. These are the encounters that make a trip unforgettable: a brief conversation, a genuine smile and a little local secret you’ll never find in a guidebook.
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